A depreciation-based ballpark from age, odometer and condition — plus whether the asking price stacks up.
All values are in today's money. The band widens with age because old cars are harder to price — a 12-year-old estimate is a guess, not a quote.
The line is a depreciation rule of thumb, not a market dataset. It applies a retention curve to the price the car was new, then adjusts that for mileage and history.
| Age of car | Value kept per year |
|---|---|
| Year 1 | 82% |
| Years 2–3 | 88% |
| Years 4–6 | 90% |
| Years 7–10 | 91% |
| 11 years and older | 93% |
Compounding those rates leaves about 38% of the original price at 8 years and 15% at 20. Electric cars use 98% of each rate; hybrids 100.5%.
Not fitted to transaction data: the brackets approximate the shape of published residual-value curves, and the condition and history multipliers are judgement calls. Five comparable local listings will beat this every time.
A current model year, same body and roughly the same trim. Not the sticker of the car you're buying.
The year it was built or sold as, not the year it was first registered.
Set it to 0 if you're only valuing the car.
Dealer prices run about 12% higher for the same car — you pay for prep, warranty and recourse.
Electric cars lose value faster once the battery warranty ends; hybrids hold a little better.
Leave blank to back-calculate it. If you know the real original price, use it — trims and spec change, so today's equivalent can be a poor stand-in.
Judges whether this odometer is high or low for its age.
Use a handful of real local listings to calibrate this one.
Add a buffer here for older cars — this is where surprises live.
These affect the cost of ownership, not the car's value.
Nothing leaves this page — the model and your inputs stay in your browser. Estimates are rules of thumb, not financial or mechanical advice.